Wednesday, November 25, 2020

It has been an awesome year for predators

Click on this for a better view. Isn't this a gorgeous coyote? He is crossing the field right in front of our house.

Every day, it seems, we spot a new predator near our house. Last night it was a grey fox, the second time we have ever seen this small canine. It was the last of the possible canines to see. We've already spotted timber or grey wolf, eastern coyote and red fox.

I have gotten trail camera pics of a Canada lynx, Canada fisher and marten (aka pine marten.) I have seen the tracks of the least weasel. We also had three bears here in the early fall.

About the only thing left in the four-legged category are bobcat (rare here) and, possibly, the even more rare eastern cougar. I personally place the cougar in the myth category even though I saw something last week that made my heart jump. It was a cat, seemingly too large for a lynx, walking across our field in late morning. I strained my eyes for a long tail -- that would clinch it as a cougar but alas, I couldn't see one. So, I have put it down as the largest lynx ever.

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Update Dec. 15

A man got trail camera photos of a cougar in Kaministiquia. It was on the TV and radio news.  Facebook too, I hear. That is only about 15 miles away! Maybe that was a cougar I saw after all. 

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 I guess a wolverine isn't beyond the realm of possibility too. I would be thrilled to see one. I have a friend who lives about 15 miles away who found wolverine tracks in the snow last winter.

Then there are the avian predators.  It started with a northern shrike. I saw it nail a junco right on the driveway. Next we had a sharp-shinned hawk terrorizing the pine grosbeaks at our feeders for about a week. Six of the panicked birds flew right into the windows of the sunroom and killed themselves. I think the hawk might have gotten an equal number on the wing. The sharpie disappeared right after I saw what can only be described as a white feathered missile. It went by our house and into the bush after the sharpie like a blur. I could only see that it was flying, not diving, and was mostly white.

It was way, way too fast for a snowy owl. The only two falcon possibilities are goshawk which I have seen a few times in my life and gyrfalcon which I have never seen. In reading up on the subject I suspect it was a gyrfalcon -- the fastest bird in the world for level flight. It hits 50-68 mph on the level. By comparison, the peregrine falcon chugs along at about 60. However, the falcon can dive at 242 mph, making it the fastest creature on the planet.

My mystery hawk was flying, not diving, and went across our yard and into the trees after the sharpie in a blink. So gyrfalcon it is, maybe.

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Update, Nov. 30.

Saw a goshawk in the same spot as the above sighting; so, it is almost certain it was a goshawk I saw the first time too.

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At night we have the owl set working around the place. I have heard great-horned and barred owls frequently and found the gut pile of rabbits they have eaten.

No doubt the little saw-whet is in the bush behind the house too. Good luck seeing that one. However, next spring he might give himself away when he starts with his "back-up" alarm call.

Monday, November 23, 2020

Pack of coyotes a Nolalu first


 In the 35 years that we have lived in Nolalu I have never seen more than one coyote at a time. The same holds true for my trail cameras. Every coyote photo has been of a single animal, never a pack. That has changed suddenly.

I got my first photos of at least three of the wily canines traveling down one of my trails. I didn't use any of those shots here because they were taken at night and weren't the best quality. But here is one of the pack in the daylight.

I was first alerted to the presence of coyote packs about six weeks ago when I heard them yipping at night. We normally hear timber wolves, not coyotes. 

We live right on the edge of coyote country. Just a few miles east of here coyote packs are the norm and wolves the exception. That is probably because there is more farm country to the east. Here it is mostly bush.

I had just gotten the pics of the coyote pack on my trail cam when I noticed dozens of coyote tracks right around the house. What were they doing here? My best guess is they were after a red fox that had been coming to our bird feeder. 

The next thing was I spotted a big coyote walking in the field right in front of the house. There was a large whitetail doe eating at the feeder at the time and while she didn't instantly bolt, she was alarmed and moved off as soon as the coyote went out of sight. 

Meanwhile wolf tracks are few and far between. My conclusion is that something has happened to the wolves and the coyotes have filled in the void. We haven't seen the fox recently either.

Wednesday, November 18, 2020

A Yankee in the Canadian Bush - School


 Chapter 13

I went to school by correspondence from Grade 3 through Grade 8. This was part of the Ontario Department of Education system for kids like me who lived where there were no schools. It was nothing like home school is today.

Each month I received in the mail large manila envelopes filled with that month's lessons. At the start of the school year I would also get boxes with textbooks as well as art supplies and materials to do upcoming science experiments. The lessons were the same as the core curriculum in the schools.

The lessons were arranged for each day of the school week. For instance, I would have printed lessons that said: Monday -- Science, followed by Monday--Writing, followed by Monday -- Art and then Monday -- History, etc. There were chapters to read in the books, then questions to answer and problems to solve, maps to colour and sentences to parse.

It was so cool! I loved it! 

I would sit by the oil stove in the dining room at camp and would lose myself in all this new information. My mom soon learned that rather than push me to "go to school" she had to slow me down. I would get so engrossed in a subject I would ignore what day it was and just keep going. Within a few days I had done the whole month.

"Oh my goodness!" she would say. "You did it all! You're going way too fast. It's not a race, you know."

She would review what I had written and say, "You better go back and check your answers."

Mom thought it best if I maintained the same schedule as kids did in real school. So, I started at 8 a.m. and had recess at 10, lunch at noon, recess at 2 and finished for the day at 3:30. The only difference for me was that I took my .22 and went partridge hunting during recesses and would throw the whole schedule out the window when I heard a boat coming back to the dock.

"Tony's coming in with a moose!" I would yell as the screen door slammed behind me.

At the end of the month I would send off my completed work in the postage-paid envelopes provided. I had a teacher who would mark or grade my work and return it in the next mailing of lessons. She would make comments just as if she was in the room. 

"Danny, you have a great imagination and that comes through on your story about the red fox. You could make it more interesting to readers by thinking of different words for "fox" and "mouse" when you repeat these names. You can get some ideas by looking up these words in your dictionary. Keep up the good work! You have the makings of great writer!" -- signed Mrs. Peters.

Huh! Different words for fox and mouse? I got out the dictionary. Well, I'll be.

By erasing a little my story became, "The hungry fox stopped its long nighttime hunt when it found mouse holes on each side of the snowshoe trail. The vixen ..." no wait, "... the clever vixen knew it was just a matter of time before a rodent would appear and provide breakfast."

Ken's Lodge, 1963

 

School became even more interesting when we moved into town for the winter. We lived at what was then called Ken's Lodge on the west side of the Forestry Point. Today this camp is called Sunset Lodge.

The lodge was on the western outskirts of town and was meant to be used just during the summer. We lived in the owners' quarter rent-free in exchange for my dad putting up ice in the camp's icehouse.

The arrangement worked pretty well except for the fact the building was uninsulated. That would prove interesting for us when the temperature dipped to forty below zero. For obvious reasons, the building's water system was disconnected in the winter. We got our water by walking down to the lake and chopping a hole in the ice. We quickly learned to cover the hole with a wooden box and tarps so there would only be two inches of new ice the next time we came instead of two feet.

There were two ways to heat the living quarters -- a DuoTherm oil stove that was identical to the one we had in the dining room at camp, and a tin airtight woodstove, just like we had in the camp cabins. Both systems ran full-out all winter.

The first time the deep cold hit in January, the oil stove quit working. Dad figured the problem was caused by "summer" oil which contained wax that would precipitate out when the temp was less than 20 below. He wrapped the oil line with an electric heat-trace wire and plugged it into an outside outlet. It worked.

The oil stove sat in the living room while the wood stove was in the walkway between the kitchen and the living room. There was a counter peninsula between the wood stove and the kitchen sink, 10 feet away. The dish cloth would freeze to the sink. The sink drain was disconnected and we collected the water in a five-gallon pail. When we dumped this outside the back door it instantly froze, making a little glacier that increased in height each day.

A stairs off the kitchen led to the bedrooms. My parent's room was right at the top of the stairs where heat from the stoves below would find its way. There was also a heat-collecting device on the wood stove chimney. The temperature in this room was usually above freezing but not by much. There was a cot in this room that I could use but I preferred a second bedroom which didn't get any heat from below. The temperature in there wasn't much different than outside. There were probably six blankets and sleeping bags spread open on this bed. I would get things warm by heating rocks atop the wood stove and then wrapping them in towels and putting them in the bed a half hour before I got in. I wore long underwear and two pair of socks. I pulled my head under the six inches of blankets to keep it from freezing. It sounds awful but actually I slept very well there. Sometimes though when it was near 50 below and the house was cracking, Mom insisted I sleep in their room. 

Our winter quarters had hydro (electricity) which was something we didn't have out at camp. There was no television in Red Lake in those days so people had to make their own entertainment. Churches held teas regularly, there were lots of dances and just about everybody was involved in hockey, curling or bowling.

"True Canadians like winter better than summer," my dad said one time. I don't know where he got that fact and it is disputed to this day by my wife, Brenda, who is about as Canadian as you can get but for me, those first winters were indeed what led to my Canadian citizenship. It started with learning to skate.

I had several friends that lived within a half-mile and every one of them could skate like the wind, or at least that's how it seemed to me. I couldn't take a step without falling on my butt or my face. I was determined to learn. So I took the snow shovel and cleared the snow off the lake in front of the cabin. It took days but eventually I had made a small rink. Mom got me a pair of used skates and watched as I walked out on the ice only to see me fall again and again and again, for days. I fell forward and backward and sideways. I did the splits. I hit the front of my head and the back of my head. I had bloody noses and split lips. One night I was taking a bath and Dad laughed, "Your bruises have bruises. Even your ears are swollen."

By the end of the week, I could skate, even backwards, at least a little.

There were no social functions on Saturday night. That was Hockey Night in Canada and we all had our ears glued to the radio to hear Foster Hewitt call the game. 

"Hello Canada and hockey fans in the United States and Newfoundland," he would always say.

The Toronto Maple Leafs were everybody's favourite but personally, I preferred the Chicago Blackhawks. I liked their logo better. It was a noble looking Indian man and reminded me of Tony Paishk.

Bobby Hull played for the Blackhawks and he was a sensation. He had a slap shot that traveled 100 miles an hour! Incredible. That would be faster than the eye could see, I thought. I wanted to practise my slap shot but that was difficult because there were no boards around my rink. If I whacked the puck at more than a few miles an hour it just disappeared in the snowbanks and was lost forever. But I found a piece of plywood and stood it at one end of my rink and shot at that. Mostly I missed and the pucks were never seen again. It would be two weeks before I could get another puck; so, in the meantime I would have to content myself with shooting chunks of ice around. 

I would often stay out on my rink after it got dark even though there were no lights. For one thing, it got dark about 5 p.m. In the winter, with everything white from the snow, you can see quite well at night. As I skated around, doing step-overs on the corners and picking up speed on the straightaways, the ice would rumble like thunder as it froze deeper and deeper. Northern lights would appear in the sky and crackle like tinfoil being shaken. Some people said they couldn't hear them but I swore I could.

Dad would park the car up at the garage at the top of the hill and walk the 100 yards down to the camp on a snowshoe trail we kept well-packed. Mom would then call me for supper and I would walk up the trail to the house where I would take off my skates and wince from the pain as feeling came back to my feet. What a great life, I would think.

I absolutely devoured my school work. There wasn't much else to do anyway. I wondered about other kids enrolled in the system. We all sent our pictures so others could see us and we were encouraged to become penpals. There were only a couple dozen of us. I got the impression that the kids all had white fathers and Indian mothers. We were spread out from Hudson Bay to Red Lake. 

There were certainly more than two dozen Indian kids on traplines in Ontario's North, I guessed. Were they able to go to regular schools? My best friend was Stanley Keesic who lived over the hill from Ken's Lodge. We were in the same grade and he went to regular school in town, coming and going on the bus. Other Indian kids went to the Mennonite School on Forestry Road. It would be decades before I learned where most Indian kids in remote areas were sent -- the infamous residential schools.

My Mom, God love her, continually worried that I wasn't getting a good education. Knowing that I was breezing through my correspondence classes, she would also enroll me temporarily in local schools, including those in Ohio when we went to visit my sister and her family. So I might attend two schools -- Red Lake and Ohio -- plus do my correspondence work in a single school year. She also worried that I wasn't socializing enough. I don't know why she felt like this as I had many friends in Red Lake -- virtually all the kids in the vicinity of Ken's Lodge plus, eventually, several close friends at Red Lake Public School and the kids who came year after year with their families to camp.

By popping me in and out of schools, particularly in Ohio, I did indeed learn one thing: there were bullies in every school. I learned to recognize them immediately; they were the biggest boys who had failed several grades and were a head or two taller than everybody else. They had a universal routine --  humiliate and torture smaller boys. If you stood up to them, they would order you to meet them after school or on the weekend when they would be accompanied by two or three bullies-in-waiting.

I was no milquetoast but there wasn't a remote chance of winning these fights. Even though Dad had shown me how to box it was just impossible. The bully would be a foot taller and twice my weight. If ever I did get in a good lick, the bully lieutenants would grab my arms and let the big bully pummel me. Bullies only pick on people they know they can beat, the more helpless, the better. Why do they do this? Because they are sick sadists. And they aren't alone. There is an endless line of succession of little bullies waiting for the big bully to finally graduate, or get a job, or become president.

I thought and thought and couldn't see a solution. I didn't want to be bullied all my life. I was sick of it. And then, one day, the answer came "out of the blue." It was, I would learn decades later, a Superconscious answer. What is the Superconscious? It is when there is an answer to a problem that is a blinding flash of the obvious, that takes into account not just every known fact but, curiously, at least one thing you didn't know. It is always accompanied by a feeling of warmth, of elation, and you know in your heart that it is the right thing to do. There is another part of a Superconscious decision: it must be acted upon right away.

So, the next day, without hesitation, I did it. The school day was beginning and I had just gotten off the bus. As I walked down the corridor toward my locker I had to pass the big bully yucking it up with some bully wannabes. He was taking something out of his locker when I tapped him on the shoulder. As he turned I punched him with all my might in the face, a sucker punch. That was one part of the solution; bullies don't fight fair but they expect you to. Well, not this time and not ever again. 

Brutus went straight to the floor while blood spurted from his nose. I kicked him hard in the gut and he twisted away from me in the fetal position so I kicked him several times in the butt.

"Get up, fatso!" I yelled.

The junior bullies shielded him as he got on his feet.

"You're dead meat!" he yelled. "Meet me after school!"

That brought up another part of the Superconscious solution. Bullies are afraid of being thrown out of school. If they are expelled they will get a beating from their old man. Not my problem. And I couldn't care less if I got thrown out. This was my ace-in-the-hole.

"Hey, I'm here right now. Come and get it unless you're chicken."

Big Dummy didn't know what to do. I started clucking.

"The kid's a psycho," said Bully No. 2.

Yeah, that's it. Nobody can beat a psycho. Whatever.

The next day I was ready to repeat the performance, only this time the group saw me coming. I walked right up and started clucking. 

The day after that there was no group in the hall.

...to be continued

Others in this series

 Prologue

Bullies
Wolverine 

Roots

Animals

Mentors






Sunday, November 15, 2020

Winter is coming real soon


 The snow on the ground, the bite in the air and the fact it starts getting dark at 4 p.m. means only one thing: winter is just around the corner.

Wednesday, November 11, 2020

Remembering why nothing lasts forever

Yesterday there was no snow. Today there is six inches

 It is Remembrance Day -- Veterans Day in the U.S.  It's a time to reflect on all of those who gave their lives so that we could live ours.

A rare hollow log

It also makes me think about life, period. Dogs die and puppies are born. Magnificent trees get imperceptibly taller each year except for those blown down in tornadoes or broken off by heavy snow. Once in a great while a dead tree trunk turns into a hollow log. 

Today a buck walks into the sunlight

Buck deer are walking hundreds of miles without sleeping. A month from now they will sleep and sleep and barely walk at all.

Everything changes every day. That is called Life.

Bucks will come back to the cedar swamps in a month to rest

When things don't change it is called Death. 


Sunday, November 1, 2020

A Yankee in the Canadian Bush -- Mentors

Bill Stupack was my hero


Chapter 12

Growing up at Bow Narrows Camp was, literally, a unique experience. Not only was I usually the only child in camp, I was also the only kid at the west end of the entire lake. I was adopted by the camp's fishermen, hunters and Ojibwe guides as well as area geologists, trappers and prospectors. Each had something to teach me. Chief among them was Bill Stupack, the camp's former owner and still a prospector and trapper.

Bill had no children of his own and in me found a willing student. I, in turn, idolized him, even as I realized his racism about Indians was wrong.

Bill was one of the North's many larger-than-life characters. He had come to the Red Lake Gold Rush in 1926 as a 16-year-old wide-eyed Ukrainian kid from Manitoba. His only possessions were his immense strength and steel resolve. He learned everything on the job at the area's many fledgling gold mines. He shoveled ore, cut firewood for steam boilers and learned carpentry skills as he helped build bunkhouses, kitchens and headframes -- the tall structures with pulleys that stood over every mine shaft. In boom times, there were a couple dozen mines around Red Lake. Only a few would produce substantial amounts of gold.

Like 10,000 others in those first years of the gold rush, Bill staked claims everywhere there seemed some chance of locating the treasured metal. He concentrated on the west end of the lake in the vicinity of what would become Bow Narrows Camp. A couple of his claims would be bought by the West Red Lake mine and Bill used that money to buy land and build his home just a half-mile downstream, where the camp is today.

Before long Bill realized he worked best alone and outdoors. He became a market hunter for the mines. Year-round shooting of big game was allowed in Red Lake in those days because there was no road to the community and no other way to feed the thousands of hungry miners.  He also obtained a registered trapline, 20 miles to the west of camp, and built a cabin at Prairie Lake, approximately the center of his trapping area. As winter approached each year, he would paddle a canoe and make a dozen portages to reach his trapping cabin, then stay there alone until Christmas when he would snowshoe the 20 miles back to his home at the camp in one day and to Red Lake the next to sell his furs. He would spend Christmas Day with the Art Carlson family in town, then load up his toboggan with supplies and make the return journey back to Prairie Lake until spring. 

In the summers Bill didn't take much time off from his prospecting and claim-staking but when he did he would often take me fishing for lake trout, his favourite fish. Perhaps at one time many of the hundreds of miners and their families who lived at the west end of the lake knew where and how to catch the big trout, but by the 1960s there was only one person with that knowledge: Bill.

He used short trolling rods with ocean-size Penn reels that had no level wind. The reels could store a couple of hundred yards of 60-pound, lead-core, trolling line that was marked in a different colour every 10 yards. At the end of this line was a 2-ounce lead sinker, a three-foot piece of heavy monofilament and a large snap. Bill's favourite trolling lures were 8-inch canoe spoons, Doctor spoons and Williams wablers. With the outboard idling as slow as possible, six or seven colours of line (60-70 yards) was let out and the boat steered along a precise route, often a very large figure 8 that covered miles. The knowledge of where those trolling patterns were became my early ticket to a guiding career.

Bill had told some friends of one of his old guests that he would take them trout fishing but then was too busy. 

"Take Danny," said Bill. "He knows where to go."

We started out with one of the guests driving the outboard but when I kept telling him that he was too close to shore or should swing wide around some coves that were so shallow we would get snagged, he turned over the tiller to me. Within a couple of hours we had boated a 29-pound and a 19-pound lake trout and my reputation as a fishing guide had begun. I was 9.  From that point forward I would spend the majority of my summer days at the stern of a fishing boat.

Bill would also take me fishing to portage lakes. He had a line cabin on Crystal Lake 16 miles to the west that was excellent for small lakers. We would leave camp at daylight in Bill's 14-foot Crestliner with a Johnson 10 and tie up at Douglas Creek, the falls at the end of Trout Bay. Bill had a canoe waiting at the other end of the portage, on Douglas Lake. It was the first of eight portages we would make, with Bill carrying the canoe and a packsack, to reach Crystal. We would start fishing on the lake about 11 a.m. and after only a couple of hours and a lunch, made the reverse trip. All told we would travel 32 miles and cross 16 portages. We would get home about supper time. My arms would be so tired from paddling that I could barely lift them the next day.

On one of those portages Bill instructed me to go ahead and clear as many branches from the trail as I could. I ran because Bill was a fast walker and I didn't want to be overtaken. The only things in my hands were the two fishing rods. I sprinted over a small hill before I noticed that just a few feet to the side of me were two tiny bear cubs. About 10 yards away on the other side of the trail was the mother bear. I was standing between them, exactly what you are never supposed to do. In a flash I reversed direction and sped as fast as I could toward Bill. When I got to him I realized I was no longer carrying the rods. Bill swung the canoe off his shoulders, the only time I ever saw him do so before the trail's end. We walked up to the little knoll and found the rods where I dropped them. The bears had fled.

"You know, Danny, I was chased by a bear over a portage one time," said Bill. "I thought I was a pretty fast runner but that bear kept gaining on me. I looked over my shoulder just as he made a big leap. I instantly fell to the ground and the bear passed right overhead. By the time he got turned around I was gone. A day later I went back over the portage and saw that bear again and do you know what he was doing"

I didn't know.

"Practising short jumps! HAHAHA!"

Bill paddled a canoe exactly like the Ojibwe guides. He took short strokes and barred the paddle against the gunwale on what would be the rear of the J-stroke. The craft would shoot along at 4-5 mph.  

I also went trapping for 10 days with Bill on Prairie Lake in January when I was 12. Each day we would walk about 10 miles on snowshoes, five out and five back from the cabin. Bill showed me how to "read" the lake ice to avoid slushy sections. We were both wearing moccasins and had we plunged through the snow into the slush, our wet feet would have frozen in the 20-below F temperature. 

One day we encountered the tracks of about 30 woodland caribou right in the middle of a lake. Bill gazed at a hillside in the distance and made a prediction: "Caribou are very curious. I bet they are laying over there on that hillside wondering what kind of animals we are. Let's go over to the portage and see if they come down to sniff our tracks."

We walked about a mile away and ate our lunch while we watched. Sure enough, a half-hour later, the herd of caribou came right to where we had been walking.

Bill would usually stop to boil a billy can of snow for tea every few hours. On one occasion we had just reached the far side of Prairie Lake when he did so. We could have walked to the cabin in 30 more minutes. I realized he called the time out because he felt we needed some hydration. It was a bit of wisdom that he had learned trapping alone for decades in the deep bush. There just was no room for mistakes.

Uncle Ervie, left, and my great-uncle Charlie Carpenter. My Brownie camera is at right.

While Bill had taught me how to lake trout fish, my uncles Ervie Kitzel and Charlie Carpenter, both from Ohio, helped me perfect my skills at northern pike and walleye. They would come for a week's fishing trip each summer and always took me with them, letting me drive the motor. Mostly we would paddle or drift along the weedy shorelines, casting for northern pike which we caught by the hundreds each day. Before long I figured out how to paddle our 14-foot wooden Nipissing fishing boats, using the wind to my advantage, and we would silently move along all the bays and shorelines, spotting moose, bear and all sorts of aquatic creatures around every turn. We were so successful using this system that after Ervie and Charlie would return home, other guests asked if I could guide them as well. At first I just worked for tips, then $5 a day and finally $12 a day, just like the big guides. My dad said it was only right since I worked just as hard, cleaned all of my guests' fish and cooked them shore lunch each day. 

While I paddled the fishing boat I always kept an eye peeled for shore creatures and watched my guests' lures as they returned to the boat, often spotting "follow-ups" -- fish trailing behind the spoons and spinners. I overheard one of my guests, a woman, say to my dad, "We always like going with Dan because we see so much more with him. I don't think we go for more than a couple of minutes before he says 'there's one,' (a follow-up).

Once or twice a summer we would spot a bald eagle or an osprey, that is how few there were back when DDT was the pesticide of choice. But then Rachel Carson wrote her book Silent Spring and spawned the environmental movement. Today there are eagles in virtually every bay on Red Lake. Curiously, ospreys are still a rare sight.

... to be continued

Others in this series

 Prologue

Bullies
Wolverine 

Roots

Animals

 





 


 



Red Lake ice-out moves to May 1

 There's bluebird weather in the forecast the next two weeks and that makes me move my final ice-out prediction to May 1 or one week ear...